LFW: Jayne Pierson and Derek Lawlor
Jayne Pierson collaborated with knitwear designer Derek Lawlor this season to present a collection which focused on movement, organic structures and elegant tailoring.
Pierson creates luxury womenswear which aims to accentuate the female form – tailored leather jackets, one-shouldered ruched tops nipped in at the waistline, whilst Lawlor pushes knitwear to the next level – hailed as being part of a new wave of conceptual knitwear. These quite opposite styles came together quite fabulously for their first collaboration.
The show was hosted at St Luke’s LSO, a cavanous church in Old Street and dancers from the Royal Ballet were invited to model the collection. This performance element was an ingenious idea, as the dancers drew attention to the movement and textures of the garments, moving like elegant birds ruffling a tasseled skirt tail like feathers or drawing attention to the dramatic detailing in a garment.
The stand out looks included stunning floor length sheer knitted dresses edged up with with beautiful bolero style shoulders in golden rope or dramatic trails made of coral tassels. The gowns were classic Pierson – one shouldered silver satin, bunched and pinned in at the waist with bright block coloured belting. The colours were muted and driven by organic references – coral, stone, washed out grey and champagne gold. There was also stunning menswear pieces which twined the female garments and were presented by the dancers in pairs performing complex ballet moves.
It was clear that the designers put as much passion and thought in to the presentation of the clothes as each garment presented. It was an innovative and conceptual collection and it will be exciting to see how the Pierson Lawlor collaboration develops.
Faye Heran
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Images: Alexander Kyriacou
